If ever there was a book that should serve as an example of why cookery books should never become obsolete, it is Memories of Gascony by Pierre Koffmann. The original version of this book was published in 1990 and went out of print. The new version, published by the Octopus Publishing Group, has been re-designed as well as re-photographed and is really quite special. The paper is parchment-like and the accompanying recipes are simple, rustic and very enchanting.
By all accounts, Pierre Koffmann is an unassuming gentleman. He arrived in London in the 1970’s to work for the Roux family at Le Gavroche. He later became the head chef at The Waterside Inn, before opening his own restaurant, La Tante Claire, where he gained three Michelin stars. He has trained some of our very finest chefs, who now have over twenty Michelin stars between them. And yet the food that inspires Pierre Koffmann the most, which he has returned to now, is the classic, peasant cooking of his youth.
In his prologue, Koffmann says that Memories of Gascony is a book about his childhood, filled with memories of his grandparents and all the eccentric characters around their farm in the small village of Saint Puy in Gascony. In an area of southwest France, close to the Pyrenees mountains, his grandmother’s food was typical peasant cooking, with the food of the land taking centre stage.
Chicken and duck were served most with fresh vegetables. Classic confits, preserved meats and vegetables, and Armagnac brandy characterise the cooking, too. Pierre shares his recipes for Crème brûlée à la Gasconne, flavoured with lemon verbena, vanilla or cinnamon, Soufflé aux pistaches, which he is quite famous for, economical dishes such as Gâteau de Choux; cabbage stuffed with hock and belly of pork, and really hearty dishes, such as Estouffade de Sanglier; a casserole of wild boar.
I learnt much about French regional cooking during my trip to the more northern Cognac region of France last year, and it was there that I was first introduced to the term cuisine du terroir, which is the central premise of Memories of Gascony. Cusine de Terroir is typical French country cooking, quite different to ‘court cooking’ or the grande cuisine of larger towns. Country cooking is about exploring the food of small villages, provincial towns and local produce. In place of travelling, Memories of Gascony is a wonderful place to start, filled with ideas for keeping food simple and frugal, but with a little touch of Pierre Koffmann’s subtle French charm.
There is so much to explore here, from Pain Gascon or Gascon Bread to Confiture, Cassoulet, Fricassée, Soupe, Gratin and Tartes; this is seasonal French cooking at its simplest and at its best.
Pierre Koffmann has an army fans and Memories of Gascony has an array of endorsements, from Heston Blumenthal to Michel Roux Snr, who says: “The original edition is always close at hand and amongst my favourite books. It is about the words, the stories and the recipes. Pierre is a genius, an authentic and pure Gascon.”
You can taste a little of Pierre’s wonderful cooking again now at Koffmann’s at The Berkeley.
Memories of Gascony is published by the Octopus Publishing Group, RRP £30. Many thanks for my review copy.
I have one copy of this beautiful cookery book to giveaway, I hope it inspires you to try your hand at some of the classical French recipes on offer.
Carrots and kale yummy great combination
Angie Hoggett says
cranberries – I love to make my own cranberry and port sauce!
Emma Wolski says
Oranges! I just love satsumas at christmas especially in a glass of mulled wine!
charlotte summers says
Apples. There are some amazing varieties out there at the mo.
Becky Downey says
Jayne BOJANG says
pomegranates and chestnuts
Sheri Darby says
Fresh new potatoes
Yvonne Crook says
Eleanor Powell says
Natalie White says
Cranberry! It tastes delicious with meats at this time of year 🙂
Emily Hutchinson says
Asparagus, roasted with lemon juice
Ceri Kay says
Janine Atkin says
parmesan on pasta. no pasta dish is the same without it
Petra Hora says
Emily Fowler says
British Asparagus. Don’t by the imported but eat my fill during the season.
Katherine Coldicott says
I love the spring and early summer when the new Jersey Royals are so full of flavour and have a great texture.
kim sellwood says
has to be celery salt added to most dishes that i cook
Marilyn Greenwood says
It has to be fresh Apricots, they are so good for you and so versatile, wonderful as a dessert or delicious in savoury dishes
David Price says
rebecca nisbet says
what a great book, looks very inspiring
Kerry Kilmister says
Julie Brooke says
Love french food and cooking
SUSAN L HALL says
Asparagus – steamed in Garlic butter mmm yummy
Nickie Chapman says
Jerusalem artichokes, but the crop has been lousy this year and I’ve had to resort to buying them from Selfridges instead of my local farmers market, boo!
Asparagus! Love it!
Lynsey Buchanan says
Turnip in my mash potato – yummy
emma kinsey says
i love sprouts and asparagus
june seghni says
parsnips…a vegetable that satisfies my sweet tooth..
Jill Ashton says
New Potatoes, just wonderful!
Lucy J Morgan says
Mulled wine and turkey 🙂
Steve Dickinson says
shelagh milne says
Cheryl Pearson says
my secret ingredient is cinnamon. I love adding it to cakes for a little “kick”
Red cabbage with apples
Garlic and mushrooms
Elizabeth Smith says
Mushrooms (truffle if I could afford it!)
Christina Michael says
garlic every time
Gary Topley says
Has to be sprouts. One of my favourite vegetables.
Now how can I possibly say that, it depends on the season, the weather and what we might actually be able to grow which changes from one year to the other. If truth be told, I think it would have to be garlic. We try to grow our year’s supply, but it is now, just cured that it is at it’s best. Fat juicy cloves which are still easy to peel. I find it hard to imagine cooking permanently without it.
Keith W says
Has to be damsons. For someone who adores tart fruit, the few weeks of the damson harvest are bliss
Laura Pritchard says
KIERAN WALSH says
good old English strawberries
Asparagus grown in the fields around our village.
Fran Light says
I love parsnips, especially roasted or in risottos 🙂
Hugh Mackenzie says
melanie stirling says
Tracy Hanson says
Probably doesn’t count, but tomato soup. We have it on Bonfire night (as a tradition) and that’s the start of “our” winter. Usually only have it between November/April. Good luck to everyone. 🙂 😀 x
Jerusalem artichokes. Delicious and so versatile.
Christine Johnson says
Strawberries freshly picked
It has got to be rhubarb in the spring.
Magnolia Verandah says
Isn’t it nice when you find a cook book that makes you feel good reading and looking at it as well as cooking. I love that peasant style of cooking. Would love this book.
jane clarke says
Wild mushrooms gathered on my Brother’s farm
Michelle Grundy says
It’s got to be sprouts, I love them. To my husband’s dismay… *smiles sweetly*
Daniel Stacey says
Claire Smith says
Pumpkin – love Pumpkin soup
Angela McDonald says
Has to be blackberries!
claire woods says
Brussel sprouts with a roast dinner.
Maya Russell says
My favourite seasonal ingredient are Brussels Sprouts. I just love them, especially with a roast dinner.
laura banks says
olivia kirby says
Kale at the moment; also pumpkins in cakes and risottos.
Wild mushrooms. I get so excited in the autumn when I can get to cook with fresh wild chanterelles, oyster mushrooms and ceps again!
Louise R says
Brussel Sprouts will be coming into their own soon. Love em
JENNY MILLER says
I love root vegetables for soups stews and casseroles.
maxime goodwin says
I love Pumpkins and squashes in October perfect for soups and curries 🙂
Katrina Day-Reilly says