Jamie, Tom and Jon & the Westcombe Truffle Cheddar Experiment

Spring has sprung and what better way to celebrate than to be invited to Jamie Oliver’s restaurant Fifteen in London to sample a seasonal menu based around a very intriguing artisan cheddar experiment. It’s not every day that such an invitation comes along; particularly as the ‘experiment’ in question involved 1 kilogram of Italian white truffles, valued at around £3-£4,000 per kilo. The truffles had been given, some eighteen months earlier, to Jamie Oliver who passed them onto his friend Tom Calver at Westcombe Dairy in Somerset, whom Jamie describes as being one of “the best known cheese makers on this planet!” Tom’s challenge was to use the white truffles to make Westcombe Truffle Cheddar, based upon the hand-crafted cheese-making methods used by the Calver family over on Westcombe Farm. Jamie hailed the truffle-cheddar marriage as “a fantastically bonkers experiment” and extended the challenge to Fifteen’s executive chef Jon Rotheram and his team, to create a glorious Westcombe Truffle Cheddar tasting menu.

Jamie Oliver at Fifteen

The menu itself showcased both the very best of British seasonal and artisanal produce, alongside the brand new truffle cheese, whilst raising money for the Jamie Oliver Food Foundation which also supports young trainees through the Fifteen Apprentice Programme. We were also served an impressive selection of British, Italian, French and Spanish wines. The tables were set, the lights were dimmed, Jamie introduced the evening and welcomed his guests and Tom told us about the cheese. Out came the courses (officially seven) on the tasting menu, although we were also treated to some additional truffle cheese tastings and some sweet chocolate truffles at the end of the meal. The only downside for me? At eight month’s pregnant I couldn’t sample any of the wines – though I did relish every mouthful of the accompanying truffle tasting menu!

To start, we tucked into cured meats from Cobble Lane, matched with a British wine; Nyetimber Classic Cuvee, 2009, made in West Sussex. The cured meats were also British made, in London, by Matt, Mat and Adam and they’d easily rival anything made elsewhere in the world. Next, my favourite course of the evening, featuring Wye Valley asparagus with a light and tasty mushroom mayonnaise and Westcombe Truffle Cheddar. This course was served with an Italian wine; Filipi Soave ‘Castelcerine’ (2012) from Veneto. The truffle cheddar, asparagus and a Venetian Soave made an exquisite trio. I adore Venetian wine having sampled much of it on a trip there last year, so I happily tapped into those memories whilst sipping my water.

Wye Valley Asparagus

Wye Valley Asparagus and mushroom mayonnaise with Westcombe Truffle Cheddar – photo credit Fifteen’s Jacques Dejardin.

Midway through the evening, we were served a slow cooked Roscoff onion, with almonds, nettles and smoked Westcombe Truffle Cheddar, whilst Jamie, Tom and Jon did the rounds and chatted to their guests. A little French wine was served with this; a Maison Deux-Montille Pouilly-Fuisse ‘En Vergission’ (2008) from Burgundy. This was also my first taste of British nettles this season – both whole and in a pureed form. Get out and grab them while you can! My grandmother always told me that she survived the war by making nettle soup, with just a handful of nettles and one potato.

More British seasonality, this time in the form of wild garlic, with sweet and sour Westcombe Truffle Cheddar, served with with ‘gnudi’ – a delicate type of gnocchi made with ricotta and flour. This course was accompanied by an Italian wine; Castello di Cigognola Barbera ‘1212’ (2011) from the Lombardy region that I’ve yet to visit.

Another highlight arrived next – grilled veal, with a Welsh truffle rarebit toast. Head Chef Jon had said earlier on that he would have happily eaten the Westcombe truffle cheddar as a Welsh rarebit alongside a good British beer – but that he thought Jamie’s guests would be expecting something a little more elaborate. The rarebit was indeed, very good. Interestingly, the veal was served with a red wine; an Aster Crianza Robera del Duero (2008) from Spain. Lots of guests asked for re-fills of this wine, so I take it from their requests that it was particularly smooth and drinkable. My partner-in-crime, Katie from Feeding Boys certainly told me so!

Just as we were getting full, along came an explosion of freshness, colour and flavour from a blood orange sorbet with a mint granita – definitely now on my ‘must make at home list’- I’d probably try something along the lines of this Lemon, lime and peppermint sorbet, substituting the lemon and lime for fresh blood orange juice.

Westcombe Truffle Cheddar

Towards the end of the evening, now extremely well fed, we sampled some more of the Westcombe truffle cheddar, this time served with thin and crispy oatmeal biscuit and Isle of Bulk Honeycomb. Again, this took me back to eating and drinking in a small cantina in a small village in the north of Italy where cheese, cured meats and honey along with a good bottle of red wine were pretty much all that the locals needed in life. At Fifteen, this course was served with an Italian dessert wine; Pieropan Recioto di Soave ‘Le Colombare’ (2009), also from Veneto.

All in all, this was a truly enjoyable evening; the white truffles had a very intriguing effect on the cheese, breaking it down and giving it a really lovely texture. The flavour wasn’t too overwhelming and was matched perfectly with a menu bursting with seasonality; in keeping with the daily-changing and creative menu at Fifteen.

Fifteen Truffle Tasting Menu

For more of a glimpse of the evening in photo form (I must learn how to use my camera in low-light settings!) pop over to read Matthew’s account over on The List.

Although the Westcombe Truffle Cheddar is unlikely to be available to buy, original Westcombe Unpasturised Mature Cheddar is stocked by Waitrose and by Neal’s Yard, as well as being available in the Westcombe Dairy Farm Shop. 

With thanks to the editorial team at JamieOliver.com for the kind invitation to this event.  

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Comments

  1. says

    The little monsters causing havoc are Asian Ladybird
    (Ladybug) beetles (Harmonia axyridis) and they can be quite nasty.
    Vocal abuse also takes a toll on your energy level. The question is guaranteed to come
    up at some point when keeping your commitment to self care is inconvenient and
    a challenge.

    • Ren Behan says

      Hi Michelle, indeed! I’m sure it is :-) Thanks for stopping by. Loved the asparagus plate, too

    • Ren Behan says

      And they served the same win for the first course – West Sussex Nyetimber – as I’ve just read about in your post!

    • Ren Behan says

      It was – that’s why I made a list! Give it six months and I’ll have to try them all!

  2. says

    what an amazing menu – love the ways that they have used it. I love the flavour of truffle so am well jell that you got to eat so much of it (and the white stuff too!!). Lovely pics and lovely write up

    • Ren Behan says

      Thanks Mardi, so pleased you have joined the JamieOliver.com team, too! Shame you are so far away :-/ Helen says she is seeing you soon?

  3. says

    Ren what a great write-up of one of the most memorable evenings i’ve had in my life! The menu was incredible, the wines knock-out and getting to meet the big man himself was awesome. I’m not always sure about the strong flavours of truffle, but for some reason it totally worked paired with that delicious cheddar.

    For me the simplest course with hunks of cheese served with those thin and cripsy crackers drizzled with honey was the absolute best – especially with the light and fruity dessert wine. I think that would be my final meal if I had to choose one last thing to eat in my life. I will definitely be going back to Fifteen…. Thanks again Ren for inviting me to such a special evening. xxx

    • Ren Behan says

      Ah, so nice to spend the evening with you – at the right event – eventually! Lucky you got to taste some of the wine. And yes, it was also an extra treat to get to meet the big man himself :-) Looking forward to more adventures soon!

  4. says

    Ren! How did I not know you were pregnant???? I’m so out of the loop! Congratulations x
    Now, onto the cheese – I was enticed in by the mention of Jamie and truffles in the same sentence. I keep trying to order something different but whenever I go to Jamie’s I have to order the turkey with truffles. Now put them in cheese….. Too good!

    • Ren Behan says

      Really?! Have mentioned it on FB I’m sure! Lovely to hear from you. Jamie and truffles were indeed a fab combo, such a privilege to meet him and to eat the amazing food at Fifteen. They sell the Westcombe Cheddar at Jamie’s Deli in St Albans – but not the truffle one.

  5. says

    I ate at Fifteen for the first time a couple of weeks ago – I couldn’t get over how long the place had been open, about 12 years now. How brilliant you were there with Jamie himself!

    I don’t usually go for the food-thrown-at-plate style of presentation so popular amongst cheffy types these days but that asparagus dish looks pretty as a picture.

    • Ren Behan says

      Can’t wait ti eat there again, the food is right up my street and Jon the head chef is so lovely. Pleased you enjoyed it too.

      The asparagus dish really was so pretty, as were the other courses, but it was just too dark to take any good photos! Still, it meant we were able to concentrate on the food…

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